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Cool CHDK Stuff

This page documents some cool and interesting projects you can do with relatively cheap Canon digital cameras. Why Canon? Because all manufacturers like to reduce functionality of their cheap digital cameras to a degree where they only good for taking snapshots of friends, family, pets, or tourist locations. Useful functionality like auto-bracketing, time-lapse, motion sensing, etc. are stripped out of the firmware so they can be added as features for higher-end cameras. However, some clever people have developed an improved firmware for the bulk of Canon's consumer digital cameras that provides many or all of these missing features. It's got the memorable name of Canon Hack Development Kit (CHDK).

Note that this page is most definately work-in-progress!

The Digital Photography Review site provides all the tools you need to select a camera. I used the feature search pages to find suitable camera models and the model comparison pages to compare different models, finally comparing these and eventually plumping for the Canon A530 based on weight, features, cost and availability.

Aerial Kite Photography

Comsumer digital cameras can be cheap and light which makes them excellent candidates for kite photography. I used a timelapse script, set to take a photo every 5 seconds, and crudely strapped the camera (with duck tape) to a kite. The kite I was a simple Brook pocket kite like
this one which had just about enough lifting power for my 230g camera. Actually, I think it was heavier than that because I was using NiMh batteries.

--> My method of attachment was far from ideal. The camera spun around a lot and most of the photos are very blurred. I'm currently looking into options to remove motion blur. Any suggestions? Obviously the best solution will be to use a more stable way of attaching the camera to the kite.

Also, the kite struggled a little to lift the camera; a slightly bigger kite with more lifting power would be useful. Or a lighter camera! I've rotated the images around - no work on the motion blur yet though. Click the images for larger versions.


High Dynamic Range Photography

Photographs can only capture a limited range of light levels, whereas the human eye can percieve a large range of light levels, i.e. they have a 'high dynamic range' (HDR).

If you want to capture a photograph of a scene with a large range of light levels, e.g. dark shadowy areas and bright lit areas then you need to take a bunch of photos at different settings. Then you use HDR imaging software (I'm using this free Qtpfsgui ) to convert the extended dynamic range represented across the series of photos into a single HDR image.

Monitors, being 'normal' dynamic range things cannot display an HDR image so you then need to remap that HDR image to one you can display on normal displays. This is the clever stuff kicks in as there are many ways an HDR image can be converted into a normal image (called 'tone mapping').

Below are the original images I used. Note that no single photo captures the best detail in the building and the clouds.

There are many a lot of different algorithms available in Qtpfsgui and each has different parameters to play with so there is a lot of experimentation that you can do.

Below are two quite different results, the first using the Fattal algorithm with parameter settings Pre-gamma=0.636, Alpha=0.1, Beta=0.8, Saturation=1, Noise redux=0.099. The second is the result of the Mantiuk with parameter settings Pre-gamma=1, Contrast equalization=1.005, Saturation factor=2

The only retouching that these have had is a little contrast enhancement. The dithering artefacts on them are from the algorithms; I don't know if they can be removed through better parameter settings.

If you want to try these same images they are available here and I'd be very interested to see what sort of results you manage to get.


Timelapse Photography

A pretty simple timelapse using one of the CHDK timelapse scripts and captured a series of photos of the sky over Cambridge. I put the sequence of images into the free video editing package VirtualDub (just select the first of the sequence in Open Video) and saved out this video.

I have written up detailed instructions on using CHDK to capture time-lapse on a Canon A650 . The same instructions apply to almost all their other cameras.

Stop-Frame Animation

Very first test using CHDK for stop-frame animation (aka stop motion animation ). CHDK lets you use a very simple homemade CHDK USB remote cable to trigger the shutter; essential if you want to keep the camera rock-steady. I also came across some useful instructions with photos .

I set manual focus and white balance with a fixed aperature. Should have probably set manual shutter speed too. Then I ran the 'remote.bas' script and clicked away. Be sure to read the wiki page beacause you need to (1) enable remote functionality, and (2) run a remote script on the camera (which I either downloaded or copied from the page). As with the time-lapse, I used VirtualDub again to import the sequence and after installing the free Xvid codec (which I got from here ) I could save it out as a little video.

Thanks to Milo for moving the LEGO model and pressing the button!
Next step might be to hack a wireless door bell (or dog training collar) to make a wireless remote cable . That would make it useful for aerial kite photography too.
  dylski @ 2ne1 . com - Last Updated: Wed, 25th March 2009